Because we live on a hill we have had to build platforms to provide flat level spaces on which to erect our temporary dwellings. We started by removing all the undergrowth and leaf mulch. We then cleared the loose top soil at the up-hill end of the plot and laid short lengths of ash log on which to rest the three main support beams.

For the main support beams we used a fairly young Western Hemlock, which we had removed recently when thinning. We cut off 16 feet from the bottom half and then split it in two to provide two beams and used the top piece unsplit. These were laid on the ash logs we had placed earlier, cutting a small V into them so they sat well.

The front beam, a straight length of ash wood, was lashed to the front to create the frame. Grabbed the help of an extra few people we lifted the front of the frame until it was about level and precariously balanced it on two upright pallets while I got a spirit level and made sure it was exactly level.

The next job was to find upright posts, seasoned ash that had been cut previous to us moving on. The loose leaf mould and topsoil was removed from the ground where the posts were to be placed. Rocks where found to place under the posts to stop the posts rotting or sinking into the ground.

While doing this I had to temporarily wedge sticks at diagonals to the frame and the ground to stop the whole thing falling over (which it did once or twice anyway). The upright posts were then measured and cut at the required length needed to make the platform level. They were put in place on the rocks, with notches cut into the beams where they join. The temporary supports were removed and the frame lowered into place.

Because the posts are not burried into the ground for support, it was essential that diagonal supports were provided as soon as possible to replace the temporary sticks that were holding it upright at this point. I used sycamore because, although it rots, these supports should be easy enough to replace. They were cut to have right angled ends and to the right length to fit between the bottom of the outside posts against the rock and the top of the middle posts. Once these were wedged in place I was able to remove the sticks and the whole thing supported itself!

To make things a little more secure I bored holes through the top of the beams into the supporting posts beneath and hammered wooden pegs into them to make sure they stay put.

The next stage simply involved cutting notches in the length ways beams where the floor joists were going to be and putting them in place. We had bought some sawn 12 ft lengths of 2x3 timber from Tinkers Bubble (another sustainable living woodland project in Somerset) to use for floor joists. Ideally they should be spaced no more that 2 feet apart, unlike mine which are too widely spaced, hence I have a very bouncy floor!

The sterling board (reclaimed from the Glastonbury festival site) was then screwed down onto the joists and we finally had a flat platform to build our bender on.

The Bender

The best wood to build a bender frame from is hazel but willow, ash or at a pinch sycamore will do (we used sycamore as we were building in the summer which is a bad season to be coppicing hazel).

Becuase we where building off the ground the bender poles were lashed with strong string or rope to the frame. The poles were then bent in an arch to meet each other overlapping most of their length. Where possible we twisted them around each other so they stayed in place on there own. It is possible to build a complete bender without any string but Sycamore is not the best wood for this and we had to use string in places.

We took a pretty random approach, putting the poles were they fitted best. When using poor coppice wood this is often the easiest approach but not the neatest

As well as poles from the ground and up, poles were weaved or tied horizontally around the frame. We kept adding poles wherever it looked necessary until happy that it was sturdy enough and created a good dome shape with no gaps big enough for rainwater to collect in the canvas. Proof of the structures sturdiness came with holding on and hanging my full weight from the center of the frame.

All that was left to do now was to drag the tarpaulin over the frame and secure it at the edges. With the bender on stilts I tied it to the framework underneath. We were using two green ex-army canvas that when laced together provided a 24x24 ft tarp. It didn't quite reach the platform at both ends of the 16x12x8 ft bender and we had to patch one end with a small piece of tarp under the main piece.

Our wood burning stove has yet to be carried up the hill. Blankets will be placed between the canvas and the poles to provide insulation later in the year.

See also: How to build a bender, Bens Dwellings & The long house